Maybe it’s because we live in Texas, but we are never without tortillas in the house. If a taco party is going to break out, I want to be prepared.
We’re lucky because our grocery store makes tortillas fresh in-store. Seriously. They even give samples. I’ve had to cut back on my tortilla sampling; it was getting out of hand. Even with easy access to tortillas, a girl (or guy) sometimes wants to make them at home. Just like homemade bread, freshly made tortillas are a revelation.
Let’s make both corn and flour tortillas, starting with corn tortillas. If you think you don’t like corn tortillas, you’re about to change your mind. They’re so, so simple to make. Compared to packaged corn tortillas, these are a bit thicker, sturdier, less prone to tearing—and most importantly, yummier.
You’ll need three ingredients: masa harina, salt, and warm water. Look for masa harina near the cornmeal in the grocery store. You’ll see lots of different kinds, and I’m always a bit confused by them, to tell the truth. Just don’t buy regular cornmeal. To make masa, corn is soaked in limewater, removing the hull; the result is finer and makes for better tortillas.
Corn tortillas give you the excuse to buy a tortilla press. I found mine right in the grocery store—again, maybe it’s a Texas thing—and it cost around $6. You’ll also want to use some waxed paper.
Stir the masa and salt together; then add the warm water. Stir until the mixture comes together and feels a bit like Play-doh. Press a finger into the dough, and the impression will stay. Wrap in plastic wrap and let the dough rest for 30 minutes or more. (I’ve even refrigerated mine overnight.)
Now, I like the flour-y, dust-y feel on my lips from a masa or flour-coated tortilla. A little coating of masa also gives extra insurance against sticking.
Divide the dough into 12 balls. Line the press with a sheet of waxed paper. Heat a cast iron skillet or comal on the stove until very hot. There’s no need to grease the skillet here.
Place one ball on the press between the waxed paper and press down quickly. Do not re-press, or the tortilla may stick. Peel the dough from the waxed paper and place on the hot skillet. Cook for 1–2 minutes then flip over and cook 1–2 minutes more. You may see some browning around the edges.
Note: You can absolutely roll these with a rolling pin.
Place the hot tortillas inside a folded dishtowel. Repeat. Do NOT skip the dishtowel part. This is a little bit of the magic. The steam inside that dishtowel from the stacked tortillas makes them pliable without tearing, and also keeps them warm.
Now let’s make the flour version. These are exactly what flour tortillas should be: soft and fluffy, but can hold up to taco fixin’s.
You’ll need a few more ingredients: all-purpose flour, salt, baking powder, shortening, and warm water.
No need for the press here; a rolling pin works better for flour tortillas. Oh, and if you have lard around, feel free to use it in place of the shortening. It’ll only make your tortillas better.
Use your hands to work the shortening into the flour, salt, and baking powder. Then add the warm water, stirring quickly until a dough forms.
Place on a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and no longer sticky.
Divide into 12 balls. Roll on a lightly floured surface until thin and about 6 to 7 inches across.
Cook on that hot cast iron skillet or comal once again. When you see bubbles on the first side, it’s time to flip.
Cook 1–2 more minutes. Ah, so good.
The magic dishtowel comes into play one more time. I’m telling you, do not skip the stacking in the dishtowel.
Tortillas are their most scrumptious served soon after making, but you can reheat the leftovers. Let cool, then place in a zip-top bag in the fridge. To reheat, wrap a few in a damp paper towel and heat for 15 seconds or so.
Your tacos and quesadillas will never be the same. Next time you make queso, serve with those fresh flour tortillas. Tear off pieces of warm tortillas for dipping in place of chips. (I need a moment.)
Promise me, though, that you’ll be sure to eat one of each, warm and spread with butter. You’ll be in tortilla heaven.
